Koreans enjoy ondol to this day and boast a unique ``jjimjilbang'' (sauna) culture in which people relax in various precious stone-encrusted ondol rooms.

A major source of wood smoke was the kitchen. Cooking rice in a ``gamasot'' (iron pot built into a clay fireplace) would produce the smoke necessary for heating floors.

Inside, one would sit on a nicely heated ondol floor (shoes off, of course) and keep even warmer with a`` hwaro'' (brazier). One would take wood from the ondol fireplace and put it in the hwaro and carefully cover it with ash to keep it burning. The hwaro was also used to light pipes, warm irons and roast simple food, like sweet potatoes. The hwaro flame was then used to relight the fireplace. Its versatility made it a household necessity that mothers guarded with care.