It's pricier than other bars in the city, with a cover charge and drinks running $2 CUC and more, but the atmosphere is well worth the prices. There's not too many places in the world where you can dance to Spanish club tunes reverberating off a cave's stalactites.

Seven days slip by quickly, and by the end I realized I hadn't spent enough time on the beach. But, the ribbing I got about my pale skin on my return was a small price to pay for ditching the beach and exploring beyond the walls of the all-inclusive resort.